1. Choose a location on the transom 6 to 12 inches beneath the waterline. Mounting surfaces should be flat, clean, dry, and free of any existing hardware or holes. Check inside of the hull for wiring or obstructions.
2. Before mounting, ensure that the light will not interfere with the operation of engines, trim tabs, rudders, etc. Clean the gelcoat or remove any bottom paint from the gelcoat surface. Mark the light center and cut the appropriate hole for your housing type. Refer to the instructions for the recommended hole saw size.
3. Spread a generous bead of sealant (3M4200 or equivalent) around the inside surface of the light bezel. 
4. Feed the light housing through the hole and orientate using the logo on the reflector. Fasten in place with tape.
5. On the inside of the hull, apply a generous bead of sealant (M4200 or equivalent) to one surface of the stainless steel washer and feed the washer over the threads of the light with the sealant side making contact with the hull.
6. Thread the Compression Nut Retaining Ring onto the light housing threads and fasten until approximately one inch from the steel washer.
7. Install the three supplied retaining bolts to the Compression Nut Ring until they make contact with the steel washer surface (hand-tight). Tighten with a socket wrench until sealant extrudes from behind the washer. DO NOT over-tighten.
8. Install the Bonding Lug with supplied nut and both, and clean off any access sealant for the front and rear of the light.

Wiring recommendations: Use ABYC standards to calculate wire size based on the length of the run. If installed as a 3-Wire configuration, the orange wire carries less than 1A of power, and typically, an 18AWG wire can be used. The orange wire of the Typhoon light is the internal relay of the light and is also the wire that sends commands from Poco.

TIP: To minimize electrical noise and interference, running the positive (red) power and ground (black) return together for as much of the wire run as possible, ideally inside a jacketed cable, is recommended. Avoid loops and coils of the wiring.

• Ensure that the circuit you are connecting to has no power. You should turn off your house battery and test to ensure the circuit is not energized by using a multimeter before continuing.
• Run a marine grade 3 conductor wire from the light to your switch and power source. The red wire will connect to constant power after the house power kill switch, the black to common ground, and the orange wire to the normally open side of a switch. You should install a 15A fuse on the red wire on a 12vDC system (7.4A @ 24vDC).  View wire gauge reference chart HERE.
• Connect the wires from the light to the new wire run and follow ABYC standards. Ensure that the wires are crimped correctly, and use a heat gun on the heat shrink of the butt splice connectors. 
• Turn on house power and test the new Typhoon underwater light.